Kruger Trip – August 2025

Day 1…Travel Day

The first of the big travel days… not much to report as travel days go—just the usual freeway scenery you’ve seen a hundred times. We departed from Rosetta and headed to Johannesburg to overnight with Dibs’s sister, Chan, and her husband, Wayne. Our nephew Conner was also there, so it was really lekker catching up, especially since we rarely make it up to Joburg.

The downside? I’m still on antibiotics and couldn’t join in the customary “arrival dops,” which usually turn into “catch-up drinks,” then “dinner drinks,” followed by “one more,” then “the last one,” and finally the ABF before bed. In hindsight, though, I was glad—I had an early start on Day 2.

Day 2 …Another Travel Day but Getting Close

We started a little later than planned, but after a quick cup of coffee and a piece of fruit or two, we set off for Pafuri River Campsite. Man, what a long drive! But it was such a fun journey—making the most of our time together, chatting, laughing, and soaking in the scenery. I realized halfway through that I had miscalculated the number of toll roads and struggled to reload the eTag with no cellphone signal… luckily, credit cards saved the day.

When we finally turned onto the Pafuri Gate road, we knew we were officially on holiday. The landscape began to change, and the baobabs slowly revealed themselves in all their glory. Our campsite for the night was just outside Kruger’s Pafuri Gate, about 2 km away, at a place called Pafuri River Campsite—and wow, were we impressed! Such a beautiful, peaceful spot.

As the sun began to set, a melodic sound drifted through the air—clank, clonk, clink. It took us a moment to realize it was the local cattle making their way home, the gentle ringing of cowbells creating an unexpected evening soundtrack.

No electricity meant hot water was supplied via the “donkey,” stoked with a few logs. With no electric lights, our headlamps and the camper lights were all we had—but that made the night sky absolutely spectacular. We had some ribs on the braai. Not being able to enjoy a beer with it was a little bummer, but it didn’t put a dampener on the day. We tucked into bed and had a good night’s sleep, though we soon realized that the temperature in the north was about 15°C warmer than we’re accustomed to in Rosetta.

Day 3 – Into Mopane Country

The alarm went off at 5 am, and despite the early hour, excitement had us moving quickly. Bags packed, coffee gulped, van and bakkie loaded — we were on our way to the northernmost gate of the Kruger National Park, Pafuri Gate.

Just after 6 we rolled up, the only vehicle there, and were greeted by some of the friendliest SANParks staff we’ve ever met. For that early on a Sunday morning, they were cheerful, chatty, and super-efficient — the whole check-in, including firearm declaration and sealing, took no more than five minutes. Honestly, it might have been quicker if they hadn’t been so keen to talk!

Once inside, the scenery changed dramatically from what we knew in the south. This was mopane country — endless stretches of mopane trees, sometimes tall woodlands, sometimes low scrub, their butterfly-shaped leaves glowing in the early light. Scattered between them stood the giants of the north — baobabs, ancient and imposing, each one a landmark in its own right. Along the rivers, the dusty bush gave way to lush belts of fever trees, figs, and ana trees, alive with birdsong.

It felt different from the south: wilder, more remote, more secretive — as if the north keeps its treasures hidden, waiting to be discovered.

And so began our journey: from Kruger’s northernmost reaches all the way to its southern tip, one stretch of wild country at a time.

Early morning game viewing was a bit quiet, but as the sun rose and the mid-morning heat crept in, it felt like the animals knew we were coming. 🐾

Dibs and I will put together a full sightings list once the trip is done, but for now I’ll just share the standouts — because there are only so many times you can mention impala, zebra, and wildebeest before it starts sounding like a shopping list… lol.

We stopped mid-morning at one of the picnic spots for breakfast — such a bonus having the van with everything at our fingertips. A quick coffee top-up, a bite to eat, bathroom break, and we were back on the road.

And then… bam! Around the next bend we ran straight into our first herd of elephants — a small group of about eight. Not long after, more ellies appeared, and then came the real showstopper: the biggest herd of buffalo I’ve ever seen. Easily over 200 strong, moving together in one massive, dusty wave — absolutely spectacular.

We arrived at Shingwedzi Rest Camp just after 1 pm, checked in, and quickly found ourselves a great spot under the shade of a big mopane tree.

Since campsites here work on a first-come, first-served basis, we made a plan: on the days we’d be moving between camps, we’d travel early so we could reach the next camp by midday and secure one of the better shaded sites.

That afternoon we headed back out for a drive — and were so glad we did. Around one of the loops we came across a herd of tsessebe. With only about 200 of these antelope in the whole of Kruger, it’s an incredibly rare sighting — in fact, you’re said to be four times more likely to spot a leopard than a tsessebe. Neither of us had ever seen one before, so it was a real highlight and the perfect way to end our first afternoon at Shingwedzi.                                 

Other animals we saw during the day included kudu, giraffe, and nyala, along with the ever-present impala, zebra, and wildebeest. And then, of course, there were the birds — plenty of them! In fact, we’ve decided they deserve a blog of their own, so I’ll keep those details for later.

Day 4 – Following the River

Last night, after chatting with a fellow camper, we planned today’s route—a loop that follows the river. Word was that lions had been spotted there late yesterday.

We were up early and managed to be the second car through the gate. It was still pretty dark as we made our way toward the area of yesterday’s sighting. Being the first car on that road, it was easy to spot the fresh tracks—looked like a big pride with cubs. We followed them for a while until they veered off toward the river. We lingered in the area, hoping for a glimpse, but no luck. Instead, we were treated to a visit from a pair of African fish eagles—always a special sight.

Not finding the lions set the tone for the day—no new big sightings. Still, there were plenty of elephant encounters (always a highlight!). One baby was learning to use its trunk—water went everywhere at first as it splashed and played, but after watching its mom and sister, it got the hang of it. We sat for quite some time, enjoying the family interactions—such an incredible unit to watch.

We also came across a massive crocodile, easily around 5 meters, just chilling on the riverbank. And of course, we ticked off all the regulars: kudu, giraffe, nyala, impala, zebra, and wildebeest.

The real treat, though, came in the birding department. We managed to spot some new and rare species—including the endangered ground hornbill. I’ll save those photos for a dedicated bird post once we’re back home 🐦.

To finish off the day, we enjoyed sundowners alongside a herd of elephants also taking a late-afternoon drink. What a perfect way to spend our last evening at Shingwedzi Rest Camp—chatting about the day’s sightings and planning tomorrow’s journey as we head off to Tsendze Rustic Rest Camp.

Day 5 – Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn 🌍

Another 6am start—because you know what they say: “the early bird catches the worm.” Today’s destination was Tsendze Rustic Rest Camp, about a third of the way down from the far north of Kruger. We’d only be staying one night, so the plan was simple: park, eat, and sleep.

Our route took us halfway along the tar road before looping onto gravel toward Mopani Main Camp for check-in. The drive itself was quiet—seemed like most animals were in hiding. Just a couple of ellies here and there. That gave us the chance to focus on some serious birding instead. Not too many photos today, but crossing the Tropic of Capricorn was definitely a photo-op moment! 📸

By midday, we arrived at Mopani, sorted out the paperwork, and found a shady patio overlooking the most beautiful dam. The temperature was pushing 38°C, and since it had been two days since I finished my antibiotics, it was finally time for a well-deserved cold beer 🍺—and wow, did it taste good! Sitting there together, grateful for this journey, we couldn’t help but reflect. Just 18 months ago, life was stressful and unhappy as we tried to live up to society’s expectations. Selling our home and business, moving into a small rented cottage in the Midlands, and building Khaya Connect has been the best decision ever. Today, we are the happiest we’ve ever been—and adventures like this prove it.

Tsendze is a gem of a campsite. No power, but everything runs off 12V with solar to keep the beers cold, wine chilled, and meat frozen. Under shady trees, with birdlife everywhere, plus squirrels and dwarf mongooses darting about—it’s the perfect bush escape with hardly anyone around.

Our short afternoon drive rewarded us with a hippo sighting 🦛 and a few elephants enjoying a cool-down in the water. It was a peaceful drive, but the real highlight came afterward—returning to camp. With only one night at Tsendze, we wanted to savour every second. Sitting under the shady trees, surrounded by bird calls, the chatter of squirrels, and the occasional mongoose darting by, we just let the stillness of the bush sink in. Sometimes, it’s not about what you see on the road, but what you feel in camp.

Day 6 – From Tsendze to Olifants

Well-rested, we decided to squeeze in a short game drive before heading off to our next stop: Olifants Camp, where we’d be staying in the iconic rondawels. For the non-South Africans, a rondawel is a traditional round hut found in rural parts of Southern Africa — simple, practical, and full of character. This camp would place us right in the heart of the park, with the Olifants River as our backdrop for the next two nights.

Since Olifants isn’t too far and check-in only opens after 2pm, it made sense to enjoy the early morning in our current area. We left camp around 6:30 am, with a plan to be back by 9 so we could pack and hit the road before the 10am cut-off.

The morning drive was quiet by Kruger standards — nothing spectacular, but that’s the thing about this place: even on a “slow” day, you’re still in Africa, surrounded by beauty. We spotted the usual plains game and one very special sighting: a magnificent kudu bull blending into the hillside so well it was nearly invisible. The art of camouflage at its finest.

After packing up, we set off on the tar road directly to Olifants. We arrived an hour early, only to be politely told we’d have to come back after 2pm to check in. No problem — we unhitched the van and took a quick detour down to the Olifants River. There we were rewarded with an unforgettable encounter: a lone elephant bull putting on a show right on the riverbank. Let’s just say the camera worked overtime, and I’m convinced some of those shots will end up as wall posters once I’ve done a little editing.

By the time we got back, the temperature had climbed to a brutal 42°C. The walk from the air-conditioned car to reception felt like stepping into an oven. We checked into our rondawel — a cosy two-bed setup with all the basics we needed but, most importantly, an aircon unit. A true lifesaver.

Now, convincing Dibs to leave the comfort of that cool little rondawel for another afternoon drive was… let’s say, tricky. With a little charm, a lot of smooth talking, and a few promises I probably won’t be able to keep, I managed to win the debate. Off we went.

 And it was worth it. We were welcomed by a fish eagle, regal as ever, perched high above the river, its sharp eyes scanning the water with that air of ownership only an apex predator can pull off. Not far off, a small tower of giraffes stretched into the treetops, stripping leaves with that slow, elegant rhythm that makes you wonder if they even notice the world around them. From the riverine bush, elephants drifted in and out like grey ghosts, pausing now and then to flap their ears or rip up a mouthful of reeds.

The ever-present hippo pod lounged lazily in the riverbed, their comical grunts and snorts echoing like old men arguing half-heartedly on a summer’s afternoon — perfectly content in their muddy jacuzzi.

But what really blew us away was the birdlife. It wasn’t just abundant; it was dazzling. Kingfishers darted like living jewels across the water, cormorants spread their wings to dry on the banks, and storks picked delicately through the shallows. Overhead, swallows danced and wheeled while weavers fussed noisily in the reeds. Each bend of the river seemed to offer a new feathered surprise. Our running tally climbed to around 110 species so far — and with every tick on the list, we realised just how impossibly rich this part of Kruger is for birding.

As the sun began to set, we returned to camp, lit a large fire, poured a cold beer and a glass of wine, and settled in for the evening. Under the African sky, flames crackling, we solved the world’s problems (as one does around a campfire). Another perfect day in Africa.

Day 7 – Mist, Lions, and a Brake Scare

We woke up to a thick mist this morning, hoping for something exciting. As usual, we were at the gate at 6 a.m., one of the first cars out, heading straight down to the river where we’d seen so much the day before.

Bingo! Second car on the road, and we picked up lion tracks almost immediately. We followed them until just past the Olifants low-level bridge, and that’s when things fell apart. My front right brakes started screeching and grinding — a major problem.

Now came the dilemma… do I jump out and take a look? No cars around, fresh lion tracks everywhere. Sense prevailed — and by “sense,” I mean Dibs, who flat-out refused to let me step out. So we limped slowly to Balule Campsite, about 3 km away, where I finally took the wheel off to assess the damage. After a close inspection, I discovered a stone wedged between the brake drum and housing. Problem solved! The bonus was getting to wander around the campsite — and yes, we’ll definitely be booking there next time.

Back on the road, with our plans adjusted, we headed south on the tar, planning to loop back on one of the dirt roads to Olifants. The mist still hung low, making visibility tough. Then, jackpot — four vehicles parked across the road could only mean one thing. Lions!

Sure enough, our first proper lion sighting of the trip: a pride of about 12 (maybe more, hard to tell through the mist) lounging in the long grass. As the sun began warming the earth, the mist lifted, and the pride slowly shuffled into the shade, disappearing one by one. Lazy cats indeed.

With three of the Big 5 now ticked off, our spirits lifted. The next sighting was especially meaningful for me: a Kori Bustard. During my field guide training, I’d studied this bird — one of the heaviest flying birds in the world, known for feeding on acacia gum. I’d answered exam questions about it but had never seen one in the wild. Finally spotting it was a real treat.

The rest of the day was quieter, just the “usuals,” but then came a magical moment: we spent a full hour watching a herd of elephants playing in the river. Imagine two or three puppies rolling around, climbing over each other, and splashing about — only a few tons heavier! Watching them was pure joy.

Taking the time to sit, watch, and really observe has been one of the best decisions on this trip. It’s broadened our understanding of animal behavior and made us appreciate the smaller details of the bush.

We ended the day with a braai and sundowners back in camp, happy with our third of Big 5 sightings and eager to track down the last two.

Day 8 – From Olifants to Maroela Rest Camp

This morning we packed up at Olifants Camp and made our way to Maroela Rest Camp. It wasn’t a long drive, so we decided to take the back roads, hoping for something special. But as mornings have gone so far on this trip… not much to report.

We checked in at Orpen Main Camp, then headed to Maroela to set up for the next two nights. We found a great campsite right on the corner fence, tucked under the shade of a few trees. After lunch, it was time for a short afternoon drive. The morning had been quiet, and at first the afternoon looked like more of the same.

But just as we turned back toward camp on the main road—there it was! Lion! 🦁 A pride moving slowly through the bush, not too far from the road. With the sun setting, it was the perfect scene—females with a whole bunch of cubs tumbling around.

This area is known for the occasional sighting of the Timbavati white lions. Earlier that day we had actually been talking about “Casper the White Lion,” who had been in the news recently. And then—unbelievably—we spotted a white cub!

Field Guide Moment with Ranger Grant 😉
A lot of people mix up albino and leucistic animals, so here’s the difference:

• 
  Albino animals have no melanin at all, which makes them completely white with pink or red eyes (that’s the blood vessels showing through).
• Leucistic animals do produce some pigment, but not enough. That’s why they look pale or patchy, but their eyes stay normal.

In short: albino = no pigment + red/pink eyes. Leucistic = reduced pigment + normal eyes.

We would have loved to stay longer with the pride, but the gates wait for no one. Back at camp, we got the fire going… only to realize we weren’t alone. Out of the shadows came our “guard dogs”—a group of hyenas patrolling the fence line. At first it was a bit unnerving, but then we realized they were just doing their rounds, hoping for scraps. Thankfully, every camper seemed responsible enough not to throw bones over the fence.

They say, “a bad day in the bush sure beats a good day in the office.” After today, I couldn’t agree more.

Day 9 – Saturday in the Bush

Being a Saturday, we decided to slow things down a little. After all the early mornings and long days in the vehicle (9–10 hours at times!), our bodies were starting to feel it. We only rolled out of camp around 6:45 🫣😂—which in Kruger time basically counts as “sleeping in.”

The slower pace set the mood for the day. We did a short loop and were lucky enough to spot a Bushbuck, which is actually quite a rare sighting in Kruger. With only an estimated 500–600 in the park, you’re statistically twice as likely to see a leopard than a bushbuck. And yet… still no leopard for us. The elusive cat continues to hide.

By mid-morning, with the heat climbing to a sweltering 37°C, we decided it was time for a break. We headed over to Satara Camp for brunch. When we arrived, the restaurant was nearly empty, so we found a shady spot under the trees, ordered some refreshments, and enjoyed a proper bacon and eggs breakfast—beers for me, chilled wine for Dibs. 🍻🍷

One of our favourite pastimes is “people watching.” We love making up little stories about fellow travelers—guessing “who’s the dad, is that the new wife, who belongs to the in-laws.” So much fun……Surely we’re not the only ones who do this? 😅

By the time we finished, Satara was buzzing. The quiet camp we had arrived at had transformed into something resembling an international airport, with game drive vehicles pouring in and tourists from all corners of the globe spilling out. It really reminded us of just how popular and special Kruger is.

The afternoon plan was simple: one more short loop, then back to camp early to light a fire and settle in for the rugby—South Africa vs Australia. After last weekend’s performance (which Rassie himself described as “dogshit!”) , we were all hoping for a much better showing.

I spotted a bird of prey on the drive back, though I’m still scratching my head about the exact ID. (Any birders out there want to help? 👀🦅)

Back at Maroela, I managed to find just enough signal to hook the laptop up and stream the game. Fire going, rugby on the screen, a cold one in hand… bliss. But, as only in Africa, the evening came with an extra surprise: a group of hyenas arrived at the fence during the match, pacing back and forth, eyeing us as though they wanted to join the braai.

Rugby, bush style. Doesn’t get better than that. 🇿🇦🔥🐾

Day 10 – Malelane Bound & Big 5 Complete

Today was a big travel day — a solid 250 km drive all the way down to Malalane. We were up and on the road by 6:00 am, determined to keep to the tar and make good time, but as always in Kruger, the bush had a few surprises waiting for us.

Not long into the drive, we came across a few elephants enjoying the cool of the early morning. Always a comforting sight to start the day. But the real magic came when we reached a small waterhole. There, in the soft light, stood a giraffe with her newborn calf. The little one still had its umbilical cord attached, a reminder of just how new to the world it was. We sat quietly for a good half an hour, watching the tender interaction between mother and baby. It’s moments like these that make the long hours in the vehicle so worthwhile.

A little further down the road, things got dramatic. An oncoming car suddenly pulled off onto our side, blocking the road and frantically pointing. Before we could figure out what was happening, a leopard appeared from the front of their car and strolled right into our path. Panic! I grabbed the wrong camera in the rush and ended up with nothing but a blur of spots. Dibs, cool as ever, was “filming”… except she hadn’t pressed record. 🤦‍♂️ A complete circus, but despite the chaos, we were over the moon. At last — our first leopard sighting of the trip! Four of the Big 5 ticked off, with only rhino left to go.

As if the bush wasn’t finished with us yet, just before Skukuza on Ring Road, we spotted a pride of lions walking purposefully towards the riverbed. It was a fleeting glimpse, but enough to remind us how alive the park always is, even in passing moments.

By early afternoon, we finally rolled into Malalane. We set up camp, had a bite to eat, and I half-jokingly said, “Let’s go for a quick drive and find a rhino — so we can finally complete the Big 5.” And believe it or not, the bush delivered once more. Three rhino, a little way off but unmistakable.

✅ Trip goal achieved. Big 5 complete.

As the day wound down, the bush gave us one last gift — a magical sunset. The sky lit up in shades of gold, orange, and purple, casting a warm glow through the trees.

Back at camp, it was time for sundowners, a fire, and some time to reflect. Malalane itself, if we’re honest, wasn’t our favorite site. The camp is perfectly sufficient, but it’s just too close to civilization for our liking. The distant sounds of trains, cars, and trucks broke the magic a little, and we missed that deep silence of the bush. Still, as we always say:

A bad day in the bush still beats a good day in the office. 🌿🔥🍷

Day 11 – Go Big or Go Home

Today was our last full day in the park, and I woke up with a mission. I told Dibs that I was going to put all my field-guiding skills together, add in everything I’d learned on this trip, and go all out to see the Big 5 in one day. A tall order—considering it had taken us 10 days to see them all so far.

From the start, we had agreed that chasing the Big 5 would not be our main focus, but today… well, today was different. No bird stops, no “let’s watch the elephants for an hour”—today was all about the Big 5. You know the drill!

We were out the gate at 5:50 am—the earliest start of our trip. My plan: always stick close to the river roads in the morning, and as luck would have it, this also put us right back in the area where we’d seen rhino the day before.

Not long into the drive, we spotted a pair of hyenas trotting off in a hurry. I barely managed a couple of pictures before they disappeared. I was still scanning the bush for rhino—plenty of tracks and fresh dung on the road—when suddenly I heard a strange sound. I looked over, and there was Dibs, pointing wildly and trying to get the words out: “CAT!”

“Where?” I asked.

“Tree!” she managed, and sure enough, there it was—a leopard draped across a branch. Perfect sighting. It was still dusky, the sun not yet up, just 6:35 am. We parked, switched off the engine, and sat in amazement for a good 15–20 minutes before the first car arrived. In total, we watched that leopard for 45 magical minutes before a big game vehicle came along and it slipped away.

1 down, 4 to go.

Barely 9 minutes later, boom—rhino! We spent a solid 20 minutes watching them slowly melt back into the bush.

By 10:30, elephants had joined the tally, and just like that, 3 down before lunch. Honestly, the two that had taken us 10 days to find were ticked off in just a few hours—what were the chances? We even took some time out to watch the dwarf mongooses, where I treated Dibs to an impromptu “guided experience,” explaining their family dynamics and quirky behavior.

Needing a loo and some refreshments, we let a car overtake us. Moments later, another vehicle came flying towards us, forcing me to pull over. As the dust settled and we pulled back onto the road, two magnificent male lions strolled out of the bush. Bam—4 out of 5 by 11:10 am! If only those two speeding cars had been going at the proper limit, they’d have seen them too. Just like that, the lions crossed and vanished.

Back to camp for lunch, very chuffed with ourselves. Four of the Big 5 before noon! Only buffalo remained, and they hadn’t been common in this area.

Over lunch, I studied the maps, plotting the best terrain to try. I settled on the dirt road toward Pretoriuskop. It was hot and quiet—most animals hiding in the shade. After 90 minutes of nothing, I said to Dibs: “Ten more minutes, then we turn back. We still need to refuel at Berg-en-Dal for the trip home tomorrow.”

And then—out of the corner of my eye—I saw something. A dark shape under a tree. Horns? “Ja right,” said Dibs, rolling her eyes. I grabbed the binos and started reversing. At first, nothing. More reversing. And then—jackpot! Buffalo!

5 out of 5.
Winner, winner, chicken dinner.

We celebrated, snapped our photos, and laughed at the irony—despite all the elephants we’d seen earlier in the day, I didn’t have a single picture to “prove it.” So we kept going until we finally found one more elephant to complete the set on camera. Typical Kruger—never there when you need them!

We ended the day with a drink at Berg-en-Dal, toasting not just an incredible day but also the most inspiring, magical trip through our most wonderful country.

And as the sun set on our last evening, Dibs and I smiled at each other—grateful, joyful, and maybe just a little mischievous. We truly are the most wonderful Irresponsible Adults, and every day we spend together feels even better than the one before.